INSTALLATION

LONG BED G.M. 1987 TO 2001

CREW CAB G.M. 1992 TO 2001

DODGE 1994 TO 2001

FORD F250/F350 HD. SD. 1968 TO 2001

The bed does not need to be loosened for these models.

Tools needed

3 1/4 in. hole saw (metal cutting) , drill motor to drive it (I recommend large Spade handle type), small chain (approximately 6 ft long with hooks), small chain binder, 1/2 in. drill bit, 1/4 in drill bit, tapered punch, some sort of jack and a piece of scrap plywood or paneling.

Drill guide, a piece of strap or angle about 8 in. long with three in line holes 3 1/2 in apart. the end ones are 1/2 in diameter and the middle one is 1/4 in. diameter.

The 3 1/4 inch hole saw is the size needed through the bed floor.

The plywood is to guide the hole saw while cutting through the bed. Cut a hole through it with the hole saw. After the 1/4 in. pilot hole is through the bed floor, place the plywood hole so the hole saw is guided by it. Stand on the plywood to steady the saw while sawing through the bed.

(Practicing on scrap sheet metal might be a good idea, holes are hard to move or erase.)

The jack is to lift the weight of the vehicle by the frame allowing enough room over the wheels to work without removing them.

The chain and chain binder is to run through the drill handle while drilling the holes in the frame. (Makes a drill press)

Dodge 4 wheel drive 1/2 & 3/4 Ton have plastic fender liners that must be removed before and reinstalled after mounting the hitch.

Some models have heat shields to be removed. (Save the parts and replace them when the hitch is removed.)

This hitch can be bent with extreme tongue weight. Only Dualies need be concerned. For them extra braces are available. Single tired trucks will blow the tires before bending the hitch. This is not a safety issue, only cosmetic. A bent hitch looks bad.

The hitch will be shipped assembled . It will have to be completely disassembled for installation. The main plate will be stenciled Front G.M./Ford on one edge Dodge Front on the opposite edge. The side opposite the mounted hardware will be stenciled TOP. The side with the mounted hardware will be marked Bottom.. The holes for the side brackets are, G.M. outside row, FORD and DODGE inner row. Lock washers are used when installing in truck. Shakeproof lock washers are included with extra bolts and nuts.

Jack up the truck by the frame enough to slide the main plate between the frame and bed above the wheel. (note TOP and FRONT ) Without lifting the plate, start the front bolt through the bracket into the threaded hole in the main plate, with the bracket pointing at right angle to the frame (outward) then lift the main plate with a prybar and swing the bracket toward the rear onto the frame top. ( Dodge will require more force because of the snug fit)

Then align ( Using the tapered punch) and insert the other four bolts. Same song other side. Tighten these ten bolts at this time. On G.M. and Ford make sure the assembly is pushed to the rear against the bed cross member. Dodge will be in place.

Under the truck. Place drill guide across the large hole in main plate and hold in place with bolts in the tapped holes . (Align the 1/4 hole to the bed corrugation center, pry the plate left or right to suit.)

This is the last chance to back out. Double check location and orientation before drilling holes.

Drill (gasp) a 1/4 in. hole through the bed through the drill guide from the bottom.

( No Bedliner ? Skip this part.) Bedliners should be sawed with a slightly larger hole saw (3 3/8 to 3 3/4 in.) and the cut out part, pop riveted to the cover button to make a matching cover. The locating hole will be drilled through the bedliner from the bottom when you locate through the bed from the drill guide. Slide a board under the bedliner to hold it up while cutting the hole. Then use the 3 1/4 hole saw on the bed through the bedliner hole.

Topside, hole saw the 3 1/4 in. hole using the 1/4 in. pilot hole punched from the bottom and the plywood or paneling to steady the hole saw, debur & clean the edges of the hole.

Now lift the casting into place and install the 16 bolts (with shakeproof lockwashers ) and tighten. The small chain can be used to lift the casting through the hole while starting the bolts. At this time make sure of the alignment into the hole in the bed. There is usually a little room to float everything into place by placing the ball into the socket and bumping it or prying the mount from the bottom.

Now it’s time to bolt it to the frame. There will be space between the brackets and the frame, not to worry, that’s to be filled with flat washers when installing the bolts, to avoid distorting or moving anything from where it is aligned.

Check inside of frame for wires and lines and move them before drilling ; or relocate the hole to miss them.

The chain and chain binder is to run through the drill handle to make a simple drill press while drilling the holes in the frame. Hook the chain to some sturdy part of the vehicle about 1/3 the chain length forward and run through the drill handle and rearward about the same distance to another solid attachment point. Using the tire as a work table, insert the 1/2 in. drill into one of the pre drilled holes in the bracket, level the drill motor (with thin blocks ,if necessary), hook chain binder to chain, start drill, tension chain binder to press drill through frame.

An alternate method is to drill small 3/16 inch pilot holes through the frame then open them up with a 1/2 in. drill. I use the chain because I’m a too light to push a drill through more than one frame a day.

After drilling each hole, fill the space between the bracket and frame with flat washers at the hole, insert a bolt through the bracket, washers and frame. Do not tighten any bolt until all ten bolts are placed then install lock washers and nuts and tighten. If you tighten any bolt before the rest are inserted it could pull the hitch out of position.

 

Congratulations on successfully installing the Quick Hitch mount for the 15 second gooseneck ball. Continue reading for ball installation instructions

 

BALL INSTALLATION

To install the ball for use. Make sure the nut is all the way against the shoulder above the threads. Drop the shank through the hole. Turn the ball to the right. Lift into the notch and turn the nut to the right until it holds the ball up tight. Then take a BIG HAMMER and tighten the nut to the right. Don’t be shy, this ball must stay tight while pulling your property down the road. (With practice this can be done in 10 or 15 seconds.)

To remove the ball, reverse the nut all the way left to the shoulder above it. Turn the ball left & lift out.

The cover furnished with the hitch works just like a thermos bottle stopper, adjustable with the wing nut to suit the need.

At this time QUICK HITCH is available for all models large enough to pull gooseneck trailers in G.M., Ford and Dodge including the 2001 versions.

Models not listed above use different parts and slightly different methods than those described.

 

INSTALLATION for

G.M. 1968 TO 1986

CREW CAB G.M. 1968 TO 1991

DODGE 1972 TO 1993

FORD F150. SD. 1968 TO 1999 and Eastern F250 to 1986

The bed does need to be loosened for these models.

Tools needed:

    3 1/4 in. holesaw (metal cutting) , drillmotor to drive it (I recommend large Spade handle type), small chain( apprx. 6 ft long with hooks), small chain binder, 1/2 in. drill bit, 1/4 in drill bit, tapered punch,some sort of jack and a piece of scrap plywood or paneling.

    Drill guide, a piece of strap or angle about 8 in. long with three in line holes 3 1/2 in apart. the end ones are 1/2 in diameter and the middle one is 1/4 in. diameter.

    The holesaw is the size needed through the bed floor.

    The plywood is to guide the holesaw while cutting through the bed. Cut a hole through it with the holesaw. After the 1/4 in. pilot hole is through the bed floor,place the plywood hole so the holesaw is guided by it. Stand on the plywood to steady the saw while sawing through the bed.

    (Practicing on scrap sheetmetal might be a good idea, holes are hard to move or erase.)

    The jack is to lift the weight of the vehicle by the frame allowing enough room over the wheels to work without removing them. A small bottle jack will be needed to lift the side of the bed temporarily.

    The chain and chain binder is to run through the drill handle while drilling the holes in the frame. (Makes a drill press)

    The hitch will be shipped assembled . It will have to be completely disassembled for installation. The main plate will be stenciled Front G.M./Ford on one edge Dodge Front on the opposite edge. The side opposite the mounted hardware will be stenciled TOP. The bottom will have an X ground in it. The holes for the side brackets will be stenciled , G.M. outside row, FORD and DODGE inner row. Lockwashers are used when installing in truck. Shakeproof lockwashers are included with extra bolts and nuts. Early G.M. models use a split main plate to clear the bed cross bracing.

    Jack up the truck by the frame enough to slide the main plate between the frame and bed above the wheel.(note TOP and FRONT ) Loosen the bed bolts to the frame (Right side G.M., left side on Ford, or all six from the rear on Dodge) and use the bottle jack to lift the bed enough to slide the main plate(‘s) under the bed . Install the mounting brackets and tighten. ( On Dodge, shims must be installed between the frame and bed at the bolts. 1/2 in. at the rear bolts ,3/8 in. at the bolts just behind the axle, and 1/8 in. at the bolts just in front of the axle. {They keep the bed from being bowed by the plate under the bed.}) Then retighten the bed mount bolts.

    Under the truck. Place drill guide across the large hole in main plate and hold in place with bolts in the tapped holes .( Align the 1/4 hole to the bed corrugation center, pry the plate left or right to suit )

    This is the last chance to back out. Double check location and orientation before drilling holes.

    Drill (gasp) a 1/4in. hole through the bed through the drill guide from the bottom.

    ( No Bedliner ? Skip this part.) Bedliners should be sawed with a slightly larger holesaw (3 3/8 to 3 3/4 in.) and the cut out part pop riveted to the cover button to make a matching cover. The locating hole will be drilled through the bedliner from the bottom when you locate through the bed from the drill guide. Slide a board under the bedliner to hold it up while cutting the hole. Then use the 3 1/4 holesaw on the bed through the bedliner hole.

    Topside, holesaw the 3 1/4 in. hole using the 1/4 in. pilot hole punched from the bottom and the plywood or paneling to steady the holesaw, deburr & clean the edges of the hole.

    Now lift the casting into place and install the 16 bolts (with shakeproof lockwashers ) and tighten. The small chain can be used to lift the casting through the hole while starting the bolts. At this time make sure of the alignment into the hole in the bed. There is usually a little room to float everything into place by placing the ball into the socket and bumping it or prying the mount from the bottom.

    Now it’s time to bolt it to the frame. There may be spaces between the brackets and the frame, not to worry, that’s to be filled with flat washers when installing the bolts, to avoid distorting or moving anything from where it is aligned.

    Check inside of frame for wires and lines and move them before drilling ; or relocate the hole to miss them. The G.M. 1/2 ton brake line is over the axle in the right frame.

    The chain and chain binder is to run through the drill handle to make a simple drill press while drilling the holes in the frame. Hook the chain to some sturdy part of the vehicle about 1/3 the chain length forward and run through the drill handle and rearward about the same distance to another solid attachment point. Insert the 1/2 in.drill into one of the pre drilled holes in the bracket, level the drillmotor, hook chain binder to chain, start drill, tension chain binder to press drill through frame.

    After drilling each hole, fill the space between the bracket and frame with flat washers at the hole, insert a bolt through the bracket, washers and frame. Do not tighten any bolt until all ten bolts are placed then install lockwashers and nuts and tighten. If you tighten a bolt before the rest are inserted it could pull the hitch out of position.

    Congratulations on successfully installing the Quick Hitch mount for the 15 second gooseneck ball. Continue reading for ball installation instructions.

 

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